I am thinking about restaurants - as I always do
In Melbourne, we're coming out of lockdown, slowly. It’s been a bleak time for restaurants, although some have been able to manage but doing take-away or delivery, and a few have been planning ahead. Philippe Mouchel, of Philippe restaurant, gives huge thanks to Shane Delia for starting up Providoor. It will be interesting to see how many restaurants continue with delivery services; those who have the space probably will.
During our lockdowns, I was confirmed in my view of the importance of restaurants. They're at the hub of a social wheel whose spokes are diners, producers, distributors, staff, other restaurants, their local area, even landlords.
My recommendation: Book a table when you can. Honour that booking. And remember that staffing levels are not what they were, so don’t fuss about the small stuff.
It’s hard for most places. I heard a man muttering very crossly about how long he had had to wait for a take-away coffee. One shop, one machine, two people making coffee, and a dozen people ahead of him. If you think you can do better at home, then stay home. If you’re going to be demanding and fussy, stay home. If you want to have a good meal, and support the hospitality industry, book a table and enjoy yourself.
We all have memories of restaurants. Sometimes it's about the food. I can think of lots of meals that have taught me about flavours and dishes, things I have loved to eat.
But more often, our memories are of an occasion, or a kindness, or a mood. I think of times with my children when they were small: of a long-gone restaurant called Panda where a waiter called Andy (whom I later met again at Flower Drum) taught my boys (and thousands of other children) how to use chopsticks. I remember a not-very-special restaurant in Italy, when my older son was just finding his appetite and asked if he could have a second serving of scaloppine.
Of course. And then he asked for a third serving, and the cook and waiters stood at a distance while he ate it, and then everyone applauded. Those are scenes from restaurant life, as much as the grander occasions. I'd love to hear about other people's favourites. If you have time, please let me know (on the contact form).